My first time surfing

Last updated on March 13, 2022

My dad had always wanted to try surfing, but we never had so we decided to learn in Sri Lanka. One of the reasons we never surfed before was because my mom has always been worried about sharks, but there are no sharks in Sri Lanka. When we got out of the van the first thing I noticed was 3 puppies playing with each other on the side walk. I played with them while we checked in.

We went down to the beach and started by practicing on the sand. Our instructor taught us how to paddle and how to properly get up. I had never really wanted to try surfing and I didn’t know what to expect. The instructor said I had a goofy foot which means I put my left foot back instead of my right foot. After we knew how to get up we went into the water. The water was really shallow and stayed the same depth for a while. Sy and Griffin stayed in the shallow water while me and my dad went into deeper water. Our instructor taught us how to hold on to our boards and dive into the water if a big wave came. When it was our turn to surf the instructor would grab our board and wait until a good wave and then, right before the wave went by, he would push the board into the wave. When you were in the right spot he would yell “Stand Up!” I got up on my first try. I think surfing is really fun and I would definitely try it again.